03-09-2014, 06:55 PM (This post was last modified: 03-09-2014, 07:05 PM by rane_nbg.)
Oh, I see, nice paint drawing
The coupling design itself is a little bit tricky to get it right. You will have a lots of trouble with mechanical dead zone, because of too complicated lever system (red bars in drawing). Make sure, when you plan lever system, to make the same lenght (L) of lever on the pot and the distance between mounting point on pedal rod and hindge axis, as indicated on figure below. That way you'll have 1:1 linear pedal angle translation. Lenght (d) is entirely up to you, as it doesn't change anything.
I'd say you need 1:2 ratio instead of 1:1 as per current setup you'll be using only part of potentiometer range (~30deg) and that should result in better signal/noise ratio. The downside is that you won't get linear characteristic out of it . This could be counteracted by using logarithmic potentiometers but then dimensions would have to be spot on.
Joruss, you're right. With 1:1, signal to noise ratio will be small, as only fraction of pot range will be used. That's not neccessarely bad, beacause it's still better than non linear response. Maybe some linear combination of both, will suit the best.
To summarize, make athleast 2 holes for mounting point on each pedal rod. One at 1:1 and the other at 1:2. That way you can play with it and maybe even drill third one somewhere in between. For gas pedal, I'd definately go with 1:1, but for cluch and brake something in between could do the job. Trial and error is allways the best experimental method
So after a long time, some days ago I decided to finish this project (without paint )
I did the "mechanical" part of the pedals so now they are working fine. Maybe i'll increase the strong of the spring from clutch pedal but it's not too important